The Italian luxury giant Prada sent models down the runway in June 2025 wearing what it referred to as its newest “modern classic”—a men’s flat leather sandal that was open-toed, tanned, and distinctly Indian in form.
However, the pattern was instantly recognizable to anyone who grew up in Maharashtra, or indeed anyplace in India. They were aware.
That was a Kolhapuri chappal.
Once worn by farmers, royalty, temple-goers, and Gen Z fashionistas, these centuries-old handcrafted shoes are now repackaged as Euro-chic accessories and cost more than ₹80,000.
Borrowing fashion is nothing new. The thing that hurts in this situation is the absence of recognition. No reference to Kolhapur, no acknowledgment of the artisans, and no cooperation with Indian craftsmen. Without its original stories, a sandal deprived of its spirit entered the world stage.
In the meantime, the Kolhapuri craft itself is having a hard time surviving in India.
The sector is being choked by low pay, a lack of government assistance, and an absence of workers.
Today, less than 10,000 craftspeople remain in the industry, with many making as low as ₹150 per day.
Kolhapuris typically never appear on international runways, much less high-end markets, despite their GI (Geographical Indication) classification.
Prada has “discovered” a deeply ingrained cultural object. It’s not the first fashion either.
Dior has taken inspiration from Bagru’s block printing. On Ajrakh, Louis Vuitton riffs. Indian craftspeople are struggling to earn a livelihood while Western businesses peddle “Indigo” and “Sari-inspired” lines.
It is not the first instance of aesthetic colonization, in which aspects of non-Western cultures are appropriated, styled, and given no credit. To put it another way, what is being glorified abroad is dying at home.
It’s not only Prada that has the genuine question. It’s for everyone.
Do we take pride in our heritage only when it is accepted by the West?
Does the Kolhapuri chappal only have value if it has a trademark and costs ₹80,000?
Are we helping our local craftspeople while international companies profit from their cleverness?
This has nothing to do with canceling Prada. It’s about taking back the credit, insisting on moral design, and preserving cultural heritage before it becomes the newest trend in luxury.
Beyond only shoes, the Kolhapuri chappal serves as a reminder that luxury ateliers and fashion schools are not the starting points for design. Dusty workshops, hand-to-hand stories, and groups that produce for continuity rather than influence are where it all starts.
Not only is it cultural appropriation when companies like Prada use these designs without giving acknowledgment, but it’s also a lost chance to create a link between innovation and tradition.
Because rebranding the old isn’t what genuine luxury is all about.
It’s important to acknowledge its origins and the people who preserved it.
Until then, we are not seeing a change in fashion.
It is erasure with leather soles on.
Written By:
Kesar Khatri